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ts by St. Mark’s in favor of less-crowded spots like San Tomà. Ask for a trip through back canals rather than the Grand Canal, which you can see by vaporetto.

San Giorgio Maggiore: The island opposite St. Mark’s Square offers breathtaking views (bell tower vista is incredible, with no lines); Palladian church contains Tintoretto’s “Last Supper;” weekend tours of the cloisters available

St. Mark's Square: Called “the drawing room of Europe,” the Piazza was long the symbolic heart of Venice. These days it’s overcrowded with tourists and pigeons, but still magnificent, and it could take days to explore the sights: The Basilica San Marco, the Doge’s Palace, the bell tower, the clock tower, the Correr Museum, and more. Fees vary. Tip: Prebook entry to the Basilica

Accademia Gallery: Grand museum of Venetian masters from the 14th to 18th century, with works from Bellini, Tintoretto, and Titian; includes Veronese’s “Feast in the House of Levi” (intended to be a “Last Supper,” but when the Inquisition objected to its realistic details, Veronese changed the name). Tip: Entry to the Quadreria is by advance reservation only.

Rialto Markets: Cross the famous 16th-century bridge and walk to the centuries-old open-air fish and produce markets; nearby meat, cheese, and specialty-food shops attract gourmands. Fish market is closed on Sundays and Mondays; produce market closed on Sundays. Afterward, take a traghetto (gondola ferry) across the Grand Canal for 50 cents; locals stand, but sit if you feel unsteady. Tip: Don’t handle the produce or you’ll risk a scolding; vendors select and bag it for you.

Chorus Pass Churches: These museum-churches run the gamut in age, architectural style, and art treasures. The Chorus Pass covers entry into 16 churches; includes must-see frescoed Frari and the “jewel box” Miracoli; buy at the first stop and visit the others as you wander; valid for one year.

Jewish Museum: The Museo Ebraico di Venezia contains archives and artifacts documenting the history of Jewish life in the city; tours highlight the unique high-rise buildings in the area necessitated by overcrowding in the old Ghetto and some of the area’s historic synagogues; explores the culture of the different Jewish groups who lived in Venice.

Burano and Torcello: Tiny adjacent islands are worth the hour-long boat trip. Burano is a fishermen’s village and a photographer’s dream with its brightly colored houses. Torcello, steeped in Venetian history, was home to one of the swampy region’s first settlements; features a Byzantine church, bell tower with lagoon views, and a small museum.

Wander without an itinerary (but with a map in your pocket) away from the main sights to see authentic Venice. Try the long, sunny expanses of Cannaregio, the boatyards and neighborhood shops of San Pietro di Castello, the warren of narrow streets in Santa Croce. Cross some of the hundreds of bridges (each with a name); spot commemorative emblems on houses; pass through lanes so narrow you have to walk sideways.

10.10.17

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